if i'm going to commit a cultural faux pas, at least it was over wine

Try as I might to be a polite-as-can-be traveler, I am not perfect. In fact, I committed a cultural faux pas during my recent volunteer stint in Peru. I bought Chilean wine – on the eve of Peru’s Independence Day. The purchase was intentional, although the resulting insult most definitely was not.


I make every attempt to eat and drink locally when I travel (and at home, too). But after sampling dozens of Peruvian wines, from splurge to steal price tags on previous trips, Peru’s winemaking seems a little elementary compared to some of South America’s great wine producing nations (specifically Chile, Argentina and up-and-comer Uruguay). Peru’s wines aren’t necessarily bad, as the majority of bottles are blends (versus single vineyard designates); they’re just not all that remarkable. If I didn’t know better, I’d say maybe their wine style just isn’t geared toward the American palette (which is perfectly fine), but I haven’t found any other wine in South America, umm, quite like what’s being produced in Peru.

So, on the eve of Peru’s Independence Day, I found myself scanning the wine aisle at a Plaza de Armas grocery store, absolutely tickled by the selection of super cheap South American wines. Like a kid in a liquor-stocked candy store, I picked out a Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina and a Carmenère from Colchagua Valley, Chile – mindful of the recent earthquake and its devastating effects on the latter wine region. My train of thought deduced that the latter purchase would surely wrack up some good retail karma. The total came to 24 soles or about $8.50 USD for both bottles. Deal!

Pleased with my selections, I grabbed the bag and headed with the two other volunteers to meet Karikuy founder and volunteer coordinator, Julio. Realizing that we didn’t have a means to open the bottles (which we fully planned on drinking in the Plaza), we took them to customer service to do the deed. Happy to oblige, the service lady pulled the Carmenère from the bag, scrunched up her face and spouted off something in warp speed Spanish to Julio. His expression was abhorrent as he quickly informed me that it was “sacrilege” to buy wine from Chile. Had it not been within hours of his country’s day of independence, I would’ve gone to bat and argued the virtues of Chilean wine.

As we made our way to the Plaza, Julio started to explain the political tensions between Peru and Chile to one of the volunteers. As far as I’m concerned, a good glass of wine is a good glass of wine (made even better when it’s also a good value) and I don’t care where it comes from. He refused to drink the Chilean wine and eventually ventured off to buy a Peruvian bottle. I gave my host country's grapes another chance, and while it was perfectly approachable and palatable, like alcohol spiked Kool Aid, its didn’t begin compare in quality with the two South American selections. I fully admit in defense of Peru and its grapes that the country has it all over Chile when it comes to Pisco production.

Wine is such a subjective thing. If I didn’t love Peru, its people, culture and cuisine so much, I probably would’ve felt worse about this wine buying offense. When it comes to local beverages though, I play my part in supporting Peru’s economy with Pisco, Fanta (with real azucar!) and cerveza consumption. That counts for something, right? Would I commit this heinous crime again? In a heartbeat. Only this time, I’d check my calendar first, and then buy two extra bottles to bag check and take home. There’s a time and place for everything, and although I try to be as culturally aware as possible in my travels, not much is going to get between me and a great tasting, good value wine. South America's got 'em in spades, but Peru, no hard feelings; I'm afraid you still have a lot of learn.

Postscript: The Karikuy volunteer crew took a five hour bus/road-trip to Ica, Peru’s wine-producing region late last week. There, we visited Viña Tacama, Bodega Lazo La Portada and Tres Generaciones (the latter two for Pisco). We sampled more than 10 locally grown wines, mostly of the super sweet, fruit bomb variety. The majority of the high-octane, 44% proof Piscos were superb.

The verdict: If I was nonplussed about Peruvian wine before, I’m even more so now, especially since I’ve seen the growing climate. It’s next to impossible to grow decent wine grapes in a desert and just because you can make wine doesn’t mean you should. End of story. If Peruvian palates demand sweet wine, so be it, but it doesn’t do much for me. I’ll stick to Pisco.

peru is possible on a shoestring budget

When I embarked on a river voyage down the Amazon two years ago, nothing could have prepared me for the otherwordly beauty of Peru and its people. I was on assignment at the time, and the fine folks at International Expeditions picked up the tab for my adventure (thank you 100 times for a trip of lifetime). I’ve since returned to Peru twice in a work slash play capacity and have had to fend for myself financially. Since I like to make my travel adventures last as long as possible, when flying solo, I subscribe to a budget travel style.


Peru is perfect for travelers on a shoestring budget, and not just the backpacker hordes. Its currency is the nuevo sol (S/) and compared to other South American countries, traveling costs are low – it’s easy to survive on $20-25 USD a day. Here are seven tips to help stretch your soles.

Photo courtesy of kudumomo

Timing is Everything
Depending upon when you decide visit Peru, prices can make or break a budget. The dry winter months of June and July are peak season in Machu Picchu and prices rise accordingly (and Inca Trail reservations are scarce for last-minute planners) Tourists flock to the sun-soaked coastal regions during the summer months of December and January. The best bargains can be found during the fringe months of April and May or September and October.

Photo courtesy of Zug55

Take a Tour
Although I tend to be a DIY solo traveler, there are some sights in Peru which require a tour operator – like hiking the Inca Trail or flights over the Nazca Lines. It is, however possible to explore Peru without paying inflated prices. Karikuy, the organization I’m currently volunteering with in Lima, for example, offers a wide variety of tours throughout Peru at budget-friendly price points. They also work to promote responsible tourism, social development and give back to the people and communities of Peru. Do your homework and ask questions and you're more likely to find the perfect fit tour operator.

Photo courtesy of Ivoinperu

Get Out of Town
Lima, Cusco and Puno are Peru’s top tourist hot spots, but venture beyond these towns and prices drop significantly for budget travelers. Think about exploring Ica, Peru’s top wine-producing region on its southern coast, the colonial city of Trujillo and its sunny beaches or hiking in the highland town of Huaraz, near the Cordillera Blanca Mountains.

Cheap Sleeps
Prices for accommodations in Peru vary from dirt-cheap, backpacker hostels to luxury boutique hotels. My head has hit the pillow at every price range in Peru, but when I’m traveling on my own dime (a.k.a. not on assignment), I’ve found several decent mid-range hotel deals. In Cusco, I highly recommend Hotel Rumi Punku (around $50 a night during peak season). It’s a family run, 2-star hostel within three (steep) blocks of Plaza de Armas. Hotel Rumi Punku is safe for the solo female traveler, clean and has free Wi-Fi and continental breakfast daily. Another Cusco property I’m excited about is the just opened, Yamanyá Backpackers Hostel. They had me at heated stone swimming pool and poolside bar, but more practical travelers will probably like their free breakfast, Wi-Fi, airport or bus-stop pickup, TV room with high-definition LCD, huge guest kitchen, comfortable beds and hot, hot water.

Photo courtesy of Muy Yum

Eat Like a Local
As a rule, I try to steer clear of restaurantes turistica. They’re easily identified by oversized menus or chalkboards posted by the entryway with English translations and seats filled with folks who don’t quite look like the locals. Sure, there’s comforting about pointing to a menu item and knowing roughly what you’re getting in a land of language barriers. But I pinky swear promise that if you put the tiniest bit of effort into dining at a non-touristy destination, nine times out of ten, you’ll reap the benefits of lower prices and far superior food.

Imbibe
The name brand liquors you know and love at home are pricey in Peru. For example, a pour of Johnny Walker will run 20 soles – or about $7 USD. That may not seem outrageous by US standards, but if you’re imbibing on a budget in Peru, you can make your bar-hopping dollars stretch much further with a few smart choice. If you insist on drinking cocktails, swap your spirit of choice for a pisco-based beverage. Pisco is a South American liquor distilled from grapes, and cocktails tend run about half the price of American cocktail counterparts. Plus, Pisco packs quite a high octane punch. If you’re really cash-strapped, stick to local beer brands like Cristal, Pilsen Callao or Cusqueña, which rarely cost more than the equivalent of $2 USD.

Photo courtesy of ChrissyJ

Souvenirs
It’s hard to travel pretty much anywhere and not want to take some tsotchkes home, especially in Peru. There are a few basic rules of the retail road that will help you get the best deal. Avoid buying souvenirs near bus stops, where prices tend to be higher. Be sure to bargain – the price on the tag is rarely the final price. Have a maximum price you’re willing to pay in mind and don't be tricked by discounts for multiple purchases. Also, keep in mind that souvenir prices at the airport can triple, so if you see something you can’t live without, grab it. Last minute buyer’s remorse is no fun.

There are a lot of great goodies to take home from Peru, but it’s best known for:

• Baby alpaca woven goods, not just sweaters, but rugs and wall hangings (be sure to check the label – many products incorporate acrylic)
• Silver jewelry with enamel and gemstones, many with Incan and Peruvian imagery
• Pisco, the national drink of Peru
• Small embroidered purses made out of manta cloth
• Chullos (woolen hats with the earflaps)
• Huayruru seed jewelry and keychains – this seed is found in the Amazon and is red with a black spot

Since I’ve helped save you all sorts of money in your travels to Peru with this nifty blog post, be sure to pick up a little something for me. Or send a postcard. I swoon for handwritten mail.